Dessert. It’s the last word, the sweet send-off, the goodbye kiss—and it just so happens to be one of our Inspectors’ favorite courses. They’ve sampled, savored and devoured plenty of delicious treats but some of their favorites this year are far from your average piece of cake. From unexpected presentations to deliciously sweet treats, here are three of our Inspectors’ favorite desserts in Mexico this year.
Casa Oaxaca
Dish: Sorbet of cafe de olla
This has a perfect line of mezcal caramel that is balanced in its sweetness and alcohol intensity. The plantain has been sliced into long, thin strips, baked until crisp like a chip and then chef has piped in a banana cream between the layers. Really lovely presentation and delivery of flavors, and it’s wonderful enjoying this on the rooftop looking out onto the cathedral.
Animalon
Dish: Cacao Tasting
As seems to be the norm for this kitchen, they take an idea and give the guests something entirely unexpected. For the chocolate tasting this arrived in three parts. The first was a long hollow cacao pod with a simple quenelle of sorbet made from mucilage, the white sticky pulp inside the cacao pod surrounding the cocoa nibs. The pulp has a faint, cacao flavor with a bright acidity that’s unexpected. Next was another cacao shell filled with a corn husk that was opened to reveal a chocolate tamal tart with a chocolate crémeux and cocoa nibs. Finally, the last portion of the chocolate tasting was a cacao pod served upright as a cup with hot sipping chocolate finished with a milk foam and dusted with cocoa powder. This was imaginative, unexpected, fully realized, and driven home with strong technique.
Galanga Thai House
Dessert: Khao Niew Ma Muang (Mango Sticky Rice)
An eye-popping presentation of perfectly ripe mango, sliced and wrapped in a banana leaf; set in a bowl with a square of sticky rice. The rice was in fact three different kinds of rice - blue, purple, and green; each was glutinous and slightly sweet, warmed (colored by butterfly pea flower, pandan, and forbidden black rice, which is purple when cooked). Some coconut cream sauced the rice which was accompanied by a scoop of rich and creamy coconut ice cream.
Hero image: Cocomango | Jose Galicia Mayoral / Casa Oaxaca El Restaurante
