Originally from Havana, Cuba, the Cuban Sandwich is also known as the Cubano or a mixto. This beloved staple was created to be a cheap and convenient option for cigar workers, and eventually made its way to the Sunshine State in the late 1800s and early 1900s. There, from Ybor City in Tampa to Miami, the sandwich took on a life of its own. Borrowing influences from different cultures (Spanish, Italian, and American), the sandwich evolved into the Cuban sandwich we all know and love today.
And while the essence of the sandwich remains the same (roasted pork, ham, cheese, pickles, and mustard on Cuban bread), many variations with delicious additions like salami, tomato, mayo, and onions exist.
One of those variations is the “Original Cuban Sandwich” from Columbia in Tampa. The oldest restaurant in Florida (and also the largest Spanish restaurant in the world), this historic establishment has a legitimate claim to being home to the original Cuban sandwiches in the United States.
Regardless of what you put in it though, the Cuban sandwich is more than just a sandwich. It’s a delicious mashup of flavors and cultures. It’s the official sandwich of Tampa. It’s also the story of the many Cuban immigrants that came to America.
Below, we sat down with Columbia’s fifth generation owners—Andrea Gonzmart Williams and Casey Gonzmart, Jr—to explore the story of one of the oldest (and just maybe the original) Cuban sandwiches in the United States.
How did the restaurant Columbia come about?
Andrea Gonzmart Williams: My great-great-grandfather immigrated to Tampa and wanted to serve the food and flavors of his home country to those who immigrated to Ybor City.
Casey Gonzmart, Jr: As for the name, back in the 19th century, people referred to the U.S. as “Columbia,” because of Christopher Columbus. There are many who named their businesses after Columbia. My great-great-grandfather loved the opportunity in his newfound country and wanted to pay homage to his new home.
The restaurant is not only the oldest restaurant in Florida but also the largest Spanish restaurant in the world, what does that mean to you?
CG: It brings a whole lot of responsibility. Being blessed with 120 years of tradition (some I wasn’t part of and for some I am part of), it is a tremendous honor and blessing to be the steward of more than a century of good times and memories for those who came before me, and those who will come after.
How has the restaurant changed since 1905?
CG: In size! We went from a small corner cafe that had 30 seats to a bustling restaurant with 15 dining rooms and 1,700 seats.
What has been your favorite change?
CG: My favorite change is that every time we restore an area of the restaurant to its former glory, we have the ability to make something new again while maintaining its original history—it can be old and new at the same time.
Is there anything you hope never changes about Columbia?
CG: I hope that the restaurant will always be a place families and communities can come to celebrate the most cherished moments in their lives with those they love the most.
How would you describe the Cuban sandwich?
AGW: Delicious! It represents the different heritages of Ybor City at the turn of the 20th century, with the Cubans (roast pork, Cuban bread), the Spanish (ham), the Italians (Genoa salami) and the Jewish and German citizens (mustard and pickles) each represented. The Swiss cheese represents the melting pot of Ybor City.What is the significance of the Cuban sandwich?
AW: It’s the official sandwich of Tampa. It’s like bottling all the cultures of Ybor City and layering them between two pieces of bread.What makes your Cuban sandwich different from others?
AGW: We put great love and care into each layer, from sugar-glazing and spicing the ham to marinating the pork in house and buying the finest quality salami. The love we put into it makes it different.CG: We make our traditional Original Cuban Sandwich with salami that has peppercorns, which varies from the imposter Cuban sandwiches they sell in Miami.
Tell their 120-year-old restaurant to call my 120-year-old restaurant.
How has the sandwich changed throughout the years?
AGW: About 15 years ago, my father decided to go back to marinating and roasting the pork in-house, glazing and baking the ham, and rebuilding it in a specific order. We tested dozens of mustards and sampled pickles over and over again.CG: The ingredients never changed, but the quality of the ingredients has gotten better and matured over time. From slicing the Swiss cheese, salami, ham, and pork fresh daily, to roasting pork and baking ham every day, we’re ensuring that we’re putting out the finest product for our guests to enjoy every day.
What do you think is the most crucial component to enjoying the sandwich?
AGW: Making sure there is salami on it. That is the official way to make a Cuban sandwich. And, of course, enjoying it with your loved ones.CG: Deciding to dine at one of our Columbia Restaurant locations that serve the most traditional, freshest, and best-tasting Cuban sandwich this country has to offer. With a glass of sangria, of course.
What is your favorite pairing with the sandwich?
AGW: Mojitos! We mix pitchers of our traditional mojitos table side using Bacardi Superior Rum, muddled fresh mint and we garnish it with a piece of sugarcane.CG: None other than our famous Original “1905” Salad! The salad is tossed and made tableside for you as you dine. The crunch of the sandwich pairs nicely with the salad that has refreshingly cold and crunchy iceberg lettuce. The good part is that both portions are large enough so that you can eat half while you’re there and take the other half home for dinner or to enjoy the next day.
Hero image: Columbia Restaurant / Columbia
Thumb image: Jeff Houck / Columbia
