It all started in 1953, when Bern and Gert Laxer, founders of Bern’s Steak House, bought a small café called The Gator Juice Bar. After months of serving breakfast, the couple decided to purchase the Beer Haven Bar, where they salvaged letters from the existing sign, found an additional “s”, and created Bern’s. The “Steak House” came later when the couple discovered that the phone company doesn’t allow single name listings. Decades on and Bern’s still follows its founder’s philosophy of “We do things differently,” except instead of cold breakfast and juices, the Tampa staple is home to mouth-watering cuts of dry-aged prime steaks, and one of the country's largest (and privately owned) wine selections.
One way Bern's "does things differently", is through incremental changes, such as servers only stepping into service after a year of training, and organic brand extensions including retail (Bern's Fine Wines & Spirits) and a sister restaurant in the form of Haven. “Bern’s grew from my parents passion, their curiosity, and their firm belief in customer service,” says David Laxer, son of Bern and Gert Laxer, and the current president/owner. “And it’s up to me to guide it through time and keep it relevant to each generation of diner.” And while the new additions to the Bern's have certainly helped the restaurant “evolve comfortably” and attract new customers, as David put it, that's not the full story.
Half the story comes from behind the kitchen with executive chef Chad Johnson. Having studied under culinary icons including Jacques Pepin, Alain Sailhac, and André Soltner, Johnson understands the most important thing is to find joy in cooking. “The reason we all fall in love with this industry is the food,” explains Johnson. “Don't ever let a technique, a trend, or personal ego guide the creative process. Always keep the flavor of the food and the guest enjoyment as the focus.”
That attention to detail oozes onto the menu, where a curated selection of prime steaks await. “The goal is to stay true to the history of the restaurant, which is a world-class steakhouse,” says Johnson. “That means keeping iconic preparations such as onion soup and shrimp cocktail," adds Johnson. "We strive to keep these preparations relevant, which at times means modifying to the tastes of our current clientele, and, at times, keeping with what has worked for decades.”
One item that's worked for decades (and continues to today) are the steaks. Classics like filet mignon, porterhouse, and t-bone are the mainstay staples, however, it's the Delmonico that reigns supreme. (It's also the favorite of both Johnson and David.) So what's the perfect pairing? A medium rare 14oz 100-Day Dry-Aged Delmonico with a side of creamed spinach and a glass of Old Bordeaux. “My father fell in love with wine as he started to grow the restaurant," says David. "I believe it was because like Bern’s, wine evolved, matured, and changed over time.”
And for the final punctuation? “I’m obsessed with our creamed spinach," beams Johnson. "It's a classic steakhouse side that we do really well [and] our use of fresh spinach, melted leeks, roasted garlic, and fontina cheese adds another layer of richness that many versions don't have.”
However, it's the sense of familiarity and welcoming that keeps diners coming back. Employees here are a part of the Laxer legacy. Some have been with the restaurant for decades, with others making it a multi-generation affair with their kids or relatives joining the fun and creating their own type of tradition. One employee, David Herrick, has been a Bern's staple since July 1985. Locals, however, know him better as Drew. “I am the last employee left that worked directly with Bern and Gert, through thick and thin,” says Drew. “We’re all a part of the Laxer family. That’s why I do what I do everyday, and why I will continue to do it.” And under David and Johnson's vision, with equally delicious results for years to come.
Hero image: Amy Pezzicara/Pezz Photo for Bern's Steak House
