Features 6 minutes 07 October 2024

15 Cuisines to Try in Vancouver

Moroccan to Mexican, Chinese to Cambodian, Indian to Italian.

With a history of immigration, Vancouver is known to be a melting pot of different cultures. Through generations of chefs, these cultures have introduced a multitude of delicious flavors to the city.

Below, we dive into 15 different cuisines in Vancouver, introducing one restaurant from each cuisine, including three One MICHELIN Star restaurants and four Bib Gourmands.


Cambodian

Phnom Penh (Bib Gourmand)

In the heart of Chinatown, find one of the city’s most respected restaurants. Since 1985, this family-run institution has dazzled crowds with Cambodian dishes. The menu is massive, offering nearly 100 rice, noodle, and soup preparations, but everyone knows to lean on the classics. Be prepared to wait for a table; lines form almost as soon as the doors open.

Inspector Notes: You could almost make a meal out of #71, thin slivers of nearly raw beef soaking in a tangy mix of pureed pineapple and fish sauce. It’s a deliciously original effort. Ordering a mound of golden-fried chicken wings coated in an addicting mix of salt, pepper, and sugar is also a given. Beef luc lac with fried egg will round out a meal guaranteed to have leftovers.

Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh

Chinese

iDen & QuanJuDe Beijing Duck House (One Star)

It has a pedigree that traces back to an original location in Beijing from 1864, but the latest outpost in Vancouver proves that this legacy hasn't lost any of its luster. Indeed, the gold-accented dining room is a feast for the eyes, blending classic opulence with strikingly modern design.

Inspector Notes: They are best known for their superlatively crispy and juicy duck. Delicious as the signature fowl may be, there is plenty more: a bevy of other delicacies are on offer, including bird's nest, sea cucumber and even a whole king crab if you're up for a splurge. It's not all razzle-dazzle, though. The cooking displays a deft hand with ingredients of all stripes from simple stir-fried mustard greens with garlic to a broth of abalone and matsutake.

Ken Huang / QuanJuDe
Ken Huang / QuanJuDe

French

St. Lawrence (One Star)

Charm abounds at this beloved Québécois bistro. Sit close enough to Chef/owner Jean-Christophe Poirier's kitchen to experience the heady aromas of his refined yet indulgent French-Canadian cooking, featuring ethereal sauces and a characteristic use of sweetness.

Inspector Notes: The fixed menu changes seasonally, but signature additions like oreilles de crisse (crispy pig ears tossed in maple syrup and spices) and a savory éclair filled with duck liver mousse, are well worth considering for those who desire an extra hit of richness. Otherwise, the meal begins with thoughtful canapés and proceeds to heartier fare like charcoal-grilled duck with chou-farci and wheat berries. For dessert, you’ll get a final dose of sweetness, perhaps in the guise of a maple St.-Honoré with Chantilly and caramel.

Hakan Burcuoglu | Amy Ho / St. Lawrence
Hakan Burcuoglu | Amy Ho / St. Lawrence

Greek

Nammos Estiatorio

Escape to Greece via Nammos Estiatorio, where white-washed walls, bare wood tables, and loads of blue set a lovely, laidback tone. Greek fare may be plentiful in Vancouver, but the menu at Nammos is impossible to resist. Seafood figures prominently along with many influences from the Aegean and Mediterranean seas.

Inspector Notes: Begin with the sardines, house-cured and served with taramosalata and carob bread, then tuck in to the dolmathes, those classic grape vine leaves wrapped around well-seasoned rice. Traditional dishes reign here, and avgolemono, with its lemony broth bobbing with braised chicken and orzo, warms you on the coldest nights. Finish with bougatsa, a round of beautifully fried phyllo layered with a luscious warm semolina custard.

Sherman Chong / Nammos Estiatorio
Sherman Chong / Nammos Estiatorio

Indian

Vij’s (Bib Gourmand)

When it opened back in 1994, this local staple was at the vanguard of Indian fine dining in North America, and it continues to make a compelling case for the gastronomic riches of the subcontinent. Namesake chef and owner Vikram Vij hasn’t slowed in spreading the good word, still maintaining a daily presence in the dining room, where he stops at tables to check that every guest is happy. He has little cause for worry, in light of the culinary treasure trove on offer.

Inspector Notes: Consider a signature dish of wine-marinated “lamb popsicles,” with a fragrant fenugreek sauce or opt for one of the vegetarian dishes, like a curry made with red bell pepper, portobello mushroom and paneer. A list of unique cocktails offers a perfect foil for the well-spiced cuisine.

Jonathan Zuluaga / Vij's
Jonathan Zuluaga / Vij's

Italian

Ask for Luigi

There are myriad reasons why we all eat out – to meet up with friends, to be seen, to celebrate special events – but at the most basic level it’s about getting fed, and no one feeds you quite like Ask for Luigi. It’s a cute little corner spot, more cabin than restaurant, with just 32 seats, and everything has been cleverly thought through. So, start with an aperitivo, be prepared to share, and do explore the exclusively Italian wine list.

Inspector Notes: Pasta is the order of the day, whether that’s pappardelle with rich duck ragu or bigoli with an abundance of shellfish; dishes that are as generous in size as they are in flavor—many plates are large enough for two. If you can take on Luigi’s meatballs and still finish your pasta dish, then take a bow.

Mark Yammine / Ask for Luigi
Mark Yammine / Ask for Luigi

Japanese

Sushi Masuda (One Star)

Entering this humble five-seat counter that is tucked in the corner of an unrelated restaurant and through the glass doors of a print shop serves as a pointed reminder not to judge a book by its cover. The plain, spare room is brought to life by the artfully simple, meticulous preparations of Chef Yoji Masuda, whose time spent in a top counter in Tokyo is amply apparent, though his own personality comes through.

Inspector Notes: With the assistance of his wife Akari, who provides a warm, attentive hospitality, the meal proceeds gracefully, from an indulgent savory "pudding" of sweet, pure-tasting monkfish liver to a wonderfully gelatinous beltfish cooked with sake and kombu, before arriving at the impeccable nigiri, which showcase exceptional ingredients alongside a singular delicacy and precision.

Kary B / Sushi Masuda
Kary B / Sushi Masuda

Mexican

Ophelía

Stunning murals, colorful carvings...Ophelía is quite literally a bright spot in Vancouver's Olympic Village. It's always packed, so make a reservation. Of course, if you didn't plan ahead, a bevy of special margaritas will help you pass the time. Chef/co-owner Francisco Higareda prepares traditional pan-regional Mexican fare just as his mother, Ophelia, did.

Inspector Notes: Corn-crusted octopus sided by cilantro rice, braised kale and zucchini is bested with a Oaxacan mole blanco that's rich and creamy. A trio of tacos rewards diners with delectable ingredients piled high atop locally made tortillas. End things with that ultimate classic—tres leches cake.

Nora Hamade / Ophelía
Nora Hamade / Ophelía

Moroccan

Moltaqa

Located in one of Vancouver's hippest dining areas, Moltaqa is where Moroccan hospitality shines. The space has several nooks and crannies for seating, so even when the house is full, it still feels intimate, and warm service encourages lingering.

Inspector Notes: The menu brims with tempting options. Bite into a flaky chicken pastilla, a dome-shaped phyllo pastry stuffed with shredded chicken and blanched almonds. Dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon, it's the perfect balance of sweet and savory. The vegetarian platter delivers everything from tomato and pepper salad and eggplant filled with walnuts to a hearty, thick split pea soup and harira soup with lentils and chickpeas in a tomato base. To finish, you'll never go wrong with a square of crisp baklava.

John Lau | Howard Yu / Moltaqa
John Lau | Howard Yu / Moltaqa

Persian

Delara

Chef Bardia Ilbeiggi helms this restaurant where natural lights pours in, bursts of blue calm and lattice screens and paintings by local Iranian artist Golnaz Kianipour mesmerize.

Inspector Notes: Complex and elegant, Delara's dishes deliver the essence of fresh, flavorful Persian cooking—tartness from dried limes, yogurt and berries; freshness from herbs; richness from nuts and seeds; and aromas from spices. Served in a deep bowl, hearty aush bobs with barley and legumes. Served with bread, it could be a meal alone, but don't stop there. Beef short rib with tangy gheymeh fills the room with a heady scent. Finally, turmeric and orange cake is a burst of sunshine with strong citrus notes.

Eva McMillan / Delara
Eva McMillan / Delara

Southern (American)

Say Mercy! (Bib Gourmand)

Intimate and welcoming, passersby stop in their tracks and do a double take, as it's clear that everyone is having a gloriously good time at Say Mercy! As for the food? It's a mash-up of Italian cooking with a BBQ nudge.

Inspector Notes: Crudo kicks appetites into gear with sweet slices of amberjack in a caper-dill dressing, olive-serrano pepper relish and wafer-thin fingerling potato chips. Don't even think about passing over the BBQ Bolo—it's nonnegotiable. Short for "bolognese," it's a distinctive dish of house-made spaghetti tossed with pancetta, smoked pork butt and Grana Padana. Finally, the unique twist on the cannoli, inspired by banana pudding, is a great way to end the meal.

Katie Cross Photography / Say Mercy!
Katie Cross Photography / Say Mercy!

Spanish

¿CóMO? Taperia

Prepare for a trip to Spain sans passport when pulling up a seat at ¿CóMO? Taperia—that is if you can score one at this perpetually packed spot. Equal parts tapas bar and despensa/bodega, it boasts all the warmth, authenticity and conviviality of similar spots in Spain.

Inspector Notes: From the fritos and the raciones to a whole world of spectacular conservas, there's plenty to whet your appetite. Start with the tart and fleshy boquerones accompanied by a side of pan con tomate. If the silky berenjenas con miel are on the menu, go for it—you won't be disappointed. Daily specials show the kitchen's flair for bridging classic Spanish fare with local product. Rare Spanish wines are a special treat here, so have the server guide you through a wine pairing.

Emily Lorenz / ¿CóMO? Taperia
Emily Lorenz / ¿CóMO? Taperia

Thai

Zab Bite - Thai E-Sarn Cuisine

Focusing on the cuisine of northeastern Thailand, this cheery operation has quickly become one of Vancouver's favorites for casual Thai.

Inspector Notes: The sizable menu makes the typical concessions to crowd-pleasing mainstays like pad Thai and pad see ew, which are prepared diligently, but it's the regional specialties on offer that will leave the strongest impression. Think boat noodles, featuring funky, aromatic beef broth loaded with bouncy meatballs and tripe, or crunchy, succulent grilled pork jowl with toasted rice and a punchy nam jaew dipping sauce.

Zab Bite - Thai E-Sarn Cuisine
Zab Bite - Thai E-Sarn Cuisine

Vietnamese

Anh and Chi (Bib Gourmand)

The brother-and-sister team have crafted a clean, cool space outfitted with midcentury modern furnishings while nodding to the past—a blue neon sign by the bar is a relic from the former restaurant. For more than thirty years, their parents' restaurant occupied this spot, but Anh and Chi now welcomes a new generation of diners.

Inspector Notes: The menu is a love letter to Vietnam. Gỏi bắp chuối cua lột, a salad of chopped softshell crab piled high atop a banana blossom, is cool and bursting with flavor. Chạo tôm bánh hỏi is prepared in a classic way, with grilled prawn mousse served with an array of fresh herbs, and there is pho, of course. The dessert menu changes daily, but if on offer, the house-made coffee mousse is a standout.

Allysa Dawson | Leila Kwok / Anh and Chi
Allysa Dawson | Leila Kwok / Anh and Chi


Hero image: Violetta / Delara
Thumb image: Howard Yu / Moltaqa


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