Words such as “organic” and “local” are far more than trendy or faddish for Maarten Van Essche, starting with the lovely natural interior of this former presbytery. His menu keeps pace with the seasons: when the tomatoes are ripe, he mixes them into a gutsy sauce with nduja and spelt pasta. When it’s mushroom season, he whips up his own version of the nation’s comfort food: mushrooms on toast. In summer, don’t miss the bouchot mussel appetisers. Free of fussy frills, Meteor seeks to showcase pure flavours.