L'Impertinent

This place lives up to its name: insolent, cheeky and even irreverent! There is something rather rock 'n' roll about German-born Fabian Feldmann, a creative chef who likes to break the rules – which isn't to say he is unfamiliar with them having been classically trained in some prestigious establishments, such as L'Oasis in La Napoule and Pierre Gagnaire in Paris. But in his Biarritz restaurant he gives free rein to his imagination, with occasionally outlandish results that always hit the mark. The finest raw materials, most notably fish from the Capbreton fish market, are cooked and seasoned in original ways. Grilled scallops, blue meat radish and habanero pepper; roast lamb, celeriac, herb jus and tangy mustard; citrus fruits on a sweet potato cream and mandarin sorbet.