St. JOHN

There’s no standing on ceremony here at St John; indeed, very little ceremony at all, and that makes eating here such a joyful experience. There’s little distraction from the surroundings either, which come in a shade of detention centre white.

This is the place to try new flavours, whether that’s cuttlefish or ox tongue. Game is a favourite and the only gravy will be the blood of the bird – this is natural, ‘proper’ food. Seasonality is at its core – the menu is rewritten for each service – and nothing sums up the philosophy more than the potatoes and greens: they are always on the menu but the varieties and types change regularly. The waiters spend time in the kitchen so they know what they’re talking about and are worth listening to. There are dishes for two as well as magnums of wine for real trenchermen. Do order the warm madeleines for the journey home.