This fine-dining dinner party has its origins as an underground phenom, but today anyone can try to score a seat, though the discreet entrance and clubhouse vibe still lend an air of sub rosa cool. Once you’ve tasted the no-holds-barred cooking, you’ll understand why the secret is out.
The nightly tasting menu is served in a swanky, bi-level warehouse decked out like a business magnate’s hunting lodge. Diners are given a pencil and pamphlet informing them of the menu; there’s even a space for note-taking underneath, but this isn't a meal you’re likely to need help remembering. The menu has a sweeping creative scope, happy to draw on both nostalgia and current culinary trends with a confident swagger.
Highlights include a trio of oysters, each dudded up according to a different fashion: raw with pickled ramp foam and rhubarb; broiled à la Rockefeller, in a creamy green garlic glaçage; or fried with a spicy XO chile oil and tangy ranch. Bold and brassy flavors presented with style and flair are a common thread, like in a final savory course of buttery A5 Wagyu ribeye paired with a delightfully dainty sweet-and-savory oxtail and sour cherry tart, perfect lattice crust, and all.