Pousada Picinguaba

Picinguaba, meaning “fish shelter,” is a tiny fishing village, with a population of about five hundred, on Brazil's Costa Verde, midway between Rio and São Paulo, and close to Paraty. This tiny hotel almost stretches the definition of “off the beaten path” — Picinguaba is definitely not in the guidebooks or on any magazine's list of Top Vacation Spots.Then again, its secretive charm is quite obviously the whole point; this small hotel is the creation of a young transplanted Frenchman, Emmanuel Rengade, who happened upon this spot by chance and bought it practically on a whim.

This is the sort of place one visits in order to truly get away from it all — the Pousada is some three and a half hours from either of Brazil's major cities, and after that long drive you will find it's impossible to drive all the way to the hotel, as when the road ends you are still a path and a foot bridge away (250m).

The hotel itself is as charming as they come, with a bit of a rustic tone to its whitewashed exterior and an unpretentious and spare stylishness to its interiors. All of the bedrooms have views over the bay or onto a large garden, and the rooms lack telephones and internet service, in a gesture of forced relaxation, and a welcome one at that. Ceiling fans and mosquito netting replace air conditioning, another deliberate gesture, opening the room to the sea breeze and the views.

In fact this hotel quite successfully carries off the illusion of an informal guest house — visitors walk on the ungroomed beach, explore the village or the nearby town of Paraty, or partake in diving, sailing, or horseback riding before gathering back at the Pousada for an informal family-style dinner. All in all, this is a well kept secret, a throwback to the days before mass corporate tourism, and the perfect antidote to the big-business resort norm.

Travel advisory: Passport and visa requirements differ from country to country. Please check with your local authority before booking.

How to get there: Picinguaba is located 30 miles from Paraty, half-way between Rio and São Paulo.

Booking Details: Pousada Picinguaba requires additional information from guests to ensure the best stay possible. As such, reservations can only be confirmed through our customer service team. Contact us for assistance. This hotel generally has limited weekend availability. Rates begin at 255 BRL per night.