Karawan Riad

Even in Fès, the city that invented and perfected the riad form, Karawan Riad somehow manages to distinguish itself. That may be due to its former incarnation as a 17th-century Maqfia harem-palace, the illustrated picture of otherworldly Ottoman elegance. Yet even though we’d never blame such an establishment for resting on its Andalous-Quarter laurels, a decade of renovations has proven that this jewel rests in the hands of forward-thinking proprietors. This is a textbook case of translating a classic formula for the 21st century without sacrificing an ounce of grandeur.

The neighborhood certainly helps — here, you’re far enough from the tourist glut to actually breathe and get your bearings, and that selfsame space is grounds for a bracing mix of antique gravity and urban rejuvenation. Karawan Riad is of a piece with its setting, executing its singularly haute-palatial caravanserai with an obsessive eye for even the smallest high-end details. That means complimentary wi-fi and sound-system docking stations, but also cedar writing nooks with views framed in wrought-iron filigree. Or black marble bathrooms with stone vessel sinks, but also underfloor heating, Italian rain showers, and Les Sens de Marrakech bath products. The surfaces, in particular, nearly beggar description, ranging from artfully carved plaster wall treatments to exquisite zellije tilework flooring.

Of course, some aspects won’t ever need a neon sheen to stay relevant. Nothing says opulence like extra space, and these seven lavish suites have it in spades. The open-plan layouts reveal their treasures at a leisurely, anything-but crowded pace, typically ending with patio doors opening onto lush, private terraces. Suffice it to say that you won’t forget you’re in Fez — ritualistically adorned lanterns, opulent silk brocade, rich damask cushions, and hand-painted calligraphy make sure of that. Everywhere, expertly placed mirrors reflect the brilliant North African light without communicating its oppressive heat. For the most privacy, and the finest views, the rooftop suite comes second to none, boasting a rose-bedecked terrace, vertical garden, and a swank embedded bathtub.

Tough though it may be to quit your sanctuary, the commanding stone courtyard doesn’t disappoint; it sings with desert cosmopolitanism, criss-crossed with minuscule water conduits and featuring a step-down lounge and cozy tea rooms with Mariage Frères products. The gourmet restaurant plates French-Fassi specialties, foregrounding succulent seafood prepared with tantalizing spices. From there, it isn’t too far to wend your way past keyhole arches, one-of-a-kind curios, and vaulted passageways to the hammam and salons for a rejuvenation of your own