Turin Palace Hotel

These days the political intrigue takes place elsewhere, but once upon a time this Turin was the first capital of the freshly united Kingdom of Italy. Hence its numerous piazzas, each awash with statuary — not to mention the actual palaces, from which (one imagines) Turin Palace Hotel derives its name. It’s appropriate enough, given the building’s century and a half of heritage, nearly all of them as this very hotel. And though it’s been thoroughly modernized inside, the edifice still fits right in with the monumental grandeur of its neighbor, the Porto Nuova train station.

At 126 rooms and a presidential suite, the Palace is thankfully cozier than the station. The gleaming décor mostly toes the business-formal party line, every now and then allowing itself a charmingly framed print or a burst of fresh flowers. Rooms come in muted, delicate pastels, great for diffusing the light and easing travel-weary eyes. Modestly lustrous surfaces predominate, balanced by plush, curvilinear seating and luxe bedding. En-suite bathrooms lend a vintage touch with checkered tiles, classic lever handles, and old-fashioned cross knobs on the faucets. Higher-tier rooms are on the upper floors, naturally, offering private balconies from which guests can survey picturesque terra-cotta roofs in every direction.

Contemporary comforts — free wi-fi, flatscreens, organic bath amenities — hit all the right notes, as does the on-site spa with a hammam and sauna. Les Petites Madeleines, the restaurant, presents contemporary Italian fare with gastronomic aplomb on spotlessly white tableware; avail yourself of the terrace, weather permitting. If you’re still hungry, rest assured that the Turinese love their cafés nearly as much as they love their piazzas. If the Chapel of the Holy Shroud is full, consider waiting out the crowds at the Parco del Valentino, a botanical garden on the banks of the Po.