The chef’s top recommendation is the ‘hiyakake’: nothing but udon noodles in a golden-yellow broth. The dashi is Kansai-style, made with makombu seaweed for umami and finely chopped round herring and mackerel for flavour. Noodles are prepared with techniques learned in Kagawa. The cool broth brings out the supple body and elasticity of the noodles, showing how the goodness of each supports the other. The donburi bowl here brings together the udon cultures of Osaka and Kagawa.