Jean-Marc Boyer is a true craftsman, and his passion is unmistakable: he finds inspiration for his cooking during solitary walks in the surrounding hills. Aromatic herbs, wild asparagus and wild garlic are used to dress up his colourful dishes that are rife with clean, well-handled flavours, such as mackerel marinated in cucumber or monkfish with carrots and ricotta ravioli. He arranges everything into a single set menu, over the course of which the surprises keep coming. The interior, designed by Régis Dho in a Japanese vein, provides the perfect foil to the chef's pared-down culinary vision. A note for those who are pushed for time: this is a restaurant with a leisurely pace.