At the Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux, a magnificent example of neo-Classical architecture, even dining is theatrical. Chef Etchebest's 12 guests share the same large table in a vaulted cellar, where they are privy to the behind-the-scenes workings of a restaurant, amid introductions to the dishes and the to and fro of the waitstaff. Everything here is a surprise: from the menu to the wine and food pairings, down to the cutlery that you choose yourself. The same spirit is to be found in the chef's dishes, which are unabashedly original and resolved to strike that harmony of flavours. The technique is impeccable (the foie gras des Landes fried and smoked in duck jus with orange!), plus you can enjoy the food while getting to know your neighbours at the table. Even when Philippe Etchebest is absent, he is still there – via video conference with the guests before the meal starts! An experience, truly.