Located in the central edifice of Bordeaux's iconic Place de la Bourse, opposite the Miroir d'Eau water feature, this establishment is run by the owners of Château Angelus and Logis de la Cadène. The gorgeous 18C parlours have been converted into a single open space and lavishly appointed – oak parquet flooring and thick carpets, wood panelling and mouldings. Youthful Bertrand Noeureuil, who worked under Arnaud Donckele, crafts a seasonal menu of maritime inspiration: “Chambrelent” fillets of young mackerel, Loubésien hake mimosa with morels or kokotxas (Basque fish stew) with wild leeks… He’s also a dab hand at more classical turf dishes, as his “Entre-deux-mers” lamb with spring vegetables and a seafood note consummately illustrates. Over 1 000 labels in the staggering wine list.