This village was once home to famous art dealer Ambroise Vollard, as well as Picabia, Picasso and Cendrars, who is buried here. Julie and Laurent Trochain run their lovely restaurant in an entirely refurbished former hunting lodge. What a transformation! Gone are the beams, the fireplace and even the traditional façade, replaced by an eminently contemporary, geometrical, designer finish. Laurent Trochain, originally from Maubeuge, trained in top establishments, not least at Pierre Gagnaire. He champions the produce of his region, starting with his own kitchen garden (vegetables and aromatic herbs), and from his beloved small-scale local producers. His vegetarian menu is gaining in popularity.