In a city not short of new and unique restaurant concepts, and in a place where culinary innovation is widely celebrated, we sat down with chef Kelvin Cheung, head chef of MICHELIN-selected restaurant, Jun’s.
Chef Kelvin has become renowned for dishes that take you through the journey of a chef that grew up in the kitchen. In our interview, we dive deeper into how he has forged a distinct path of his own, broke free from traditional norms, and constructed his style of 'borderless cooking' that spans continents.
Raised in a traditional Chinese household in Toronto, chef Kelvin describes his childhood as that of a typical immigrant family. Growing up, the kitchen was at the centre of his childhood. There, chef Kelvin, now a third-generation chef, contributed to the daily operations of his father's restaurant from a young age. He describes his food much like the way he describes himself – a blend of Asian and North American culture.
His MICHELIN-selected restaurant, Jun's, has carved out a distinct reputation for itself, offering guests a modern fine-dining experience where presentation is simple and food heavy in flavour. A place for celebration, whether big or small, is complemented by delicate culinary masterpieces, which heavily draw inspiration from chef Kelvin's memories, such as his guests’ favourite, the Scallop and Corn dish.
“Every summer, my mother would stop going to the supermarket and she would rally the family before we go to the restaurant,” he says. “We would go to the local farms, which there are just tons of in Toronto, and one of our favorite things was to pick peaches and cream corn. It's a hybridized corn that they have in Canada. Super sweet, very low in starch and then they set up a little corn maze, so the kids run around and get lost in these corn mazes. It was a really fun memory for us growing up as kids, so I wanted to do a very corn-focused dish.”
To create this dish packed with unique flavours, chef Kelvin combines Hokkaido scallops with house-made yuzu kosho, corn purée, and warm crispy rice.
To give guests the memorable dining experience he thrives for, chef Kelvin considers every aspect of it. From the ambiance down to the water, every flavourful dish is accompanied by the one of the world’s purest waters. Leaving a memorable trace, diners at Jun's will get a taste of EIRA water, which has one of the lowest mineral contents and is hailed by chefs to complement fine dining.
"EIRA water is simple in its presentation but focuses heavily on flavour, which is exactly what Jun's is about. Both still and sparkling water taste crisp, pristine, and cool. There are no theatrics here, no gimmicks. Just simply a high-quality product, just like food at Jun's," chef Kelvin describes.
Bringing his personality into everything he creates, chef Kelvin is also passionate about sourcing his produce locally, something that he picked up early on when working at his father's restaurant. "I design my menu around what is available from small local farms," he says. "I plan menus ahead of time, usually three to six months, and if I cannot get something here, I will try and source from surrounding countries. We really try to make as much of an impact as possible here."
Through hard work and determination to continuously innovate, chef Kelvin has built a reputable name for himself and Jun's. Having matured in his craft, he advises young chefs to practice control and humility.
“[They] are the main things that you just need to learn; remember to balance, push boundaries with the restraints and how to filter that inspiration through experiences and what sells - bigger or more expensive, is not always better, right? So, it's more about restraint, humility and learning control.”
And for those looking to offer guests a dining experience that will not be as easily forgotten, he suggests to truly look at the ingredient and always ask, "How can I elevate it?"
