The arrival of new owners means a refreshed feel to this long-standing country house hotel and restaurant on the edge of Snowdonia. Housed inside an elegant, slate-built former shooting lodge, the dining room now has a cleaner, more contemporary feel with light wooden floors and furnishings. The tasting menu, available in long or short form, makes a point of spotlighting the Welsh larder – in dishes that enjoyably combine classic recipes with some global influences, like vadouvan and miso with scallops or XO velouté with butter-poached cod.