A New Zealander, previously sous-chef here, and his partner are replacing the British chef who was at the helm for many years. The decor has been freshened up a little, and the single set lunch menu has been replaced by a short two-choice menu. The new bosses have been wise enough to maintain the winning formula: a vintage vibe, friendly atmosphere, low prices and a wine list with a passion for natural wines. The unadorned plating belies the technical refinement of the cuisine. No fancy presentations here, just trendy, family-style cooking (yes, it's possible!).