Éric Fernez inherited his love of cooking from his grand-mother, Eugénie, and he has passed on this passion to his daughter, Émilie. Premium produce, generous classical fare and the added dimension that wine can bring to a dish are the bedrock of this family’s values. Éric, a past master of old school cooking, who can rely entirely on his right-hand man, David Cataudela, crafts nostalgic food that reads like a culinary encyclopaedia. You can expect to sample traditional produce, like pigeon, pig’s trotters and sole (à la Fernand Point, no less!), courtesy of almost-forgotten recipes. The sauces are in a class of their own, illustrated by a consommé of beef tail that flanks trout, cooked medium rare, or the gutsy duck gravy that escorts duck breast and an amazing caramelised nougat. The jaw-dropping à la carte lineup of timeless dishes and seasonal set menus reveal the establishment’s desire to bend over backwards to please. This restaurant, in which legacy and intimacy go together like salt and pepper in a contemporary elegant interior, is the perfect place for a slap-up meal with all the trappings of tradition. The chef often pops out to greet and chat with diners, which further adds to the friendly vibe.