El Encanto, A Belmond Hotel, Santa Barbara

Though physically not all that far from Los Angeles, in terms of atmosphere Santa Barbara could scarcely be more different. Rather than trying to turn it into some Hollywood satellite, smart hoteliers embrace the essential sleepiness of Santa Barbara — and the proprietors of Belmond El Encanto, by this definition, certainly qualify as smart.

The vibe is less gleaming opulence and more posh residential village, with the hotel’s accommodations spread among dozens of bungalows scattered over the hillside property. That’s not to say life isn’t luxe here, however. You’ll have at very least your own suite, and quite possibly your own bungalow, and while the overall look is a restrained one, all Craftsman-influenced Californian refinement, there’s never any question about the furnishings and finishes — a multi-year renovation leaves Belmond El Encanto in stunningly fine form.

An extensive, well-equipped spa accounts for a sizable proportion of the hotel’s business, and the food and drink offerings are first-rate as well — the Dining Room and adjoining Terrace serve California coastal fare with wide-ranging influences and near-ranging ingredients, including cheese made with the help of the Belmond’s resident dairy cow. We’re not sure anybody stays specifically for the view from the Terrace’s dining tables, but once they’re here, they certainly don’t complain.