The second-generation owner-chef, Ryusuke Nakatani, added ‘Ajikitcho’ to the name as gratitude to his parents for the flavours he inherited. The centrepiece is the hassun, in which generous portions of ingredients are garnished with leaves and flowers to express each season. To finish, takikomi-gohan is prepared in a broad-brimmed rice pot called a hagama. Taking a page from his father’s cookbook, he cooks his rice on the soft side for a balance between the rice and other ingredients.