Since 2015, Japanese chef Masahiro Kawai has been in charge of the kitchens at this restaurant steeped in history. He draws on his experience in Japan, Spain and France (working with Yves Camdeborde and Christian Etchebest) to create traditional yet cheerful bistro cuisine, in which seafood ingredients play a key role. The classics are present and correct – roast foie gras, game in season – the flavours are delicious and the cooking is precise, particularly in the case of the grilled mackerel, ratatouille and pistou.