Masseria San Domenico

Leave to the travel writers the question of whether or not it’s the new Tuscany; Puglia, by now, is familiar enough on its own, its dramatic and often sublimely bleak landscape just about as far as you can get from the postcard paradise of parts farther north. In contrast to the soothing spectacle of Tuscan farmhouses surrounded by rolling hills, Puglia is about beauty of a starker sort — like the gleaming, whitewashed, fifteenth-century Masseria San Domenico.

San Domenico’s main building used to be a watchtower, from which the Knights of Malta watched the Adriatic Sea for possible Turk invaders. It’s no surprise, then, that the resort’s ocean views are superb. The immaculately restored interiors of the agricultural complex, carefully pruned orchards, hilltop golf course, sparkling thalassotherapy spa, and magnificent aquamarine swimming pool aren’t bad, either. Light-filled guest rooms, some overlooking the sea, feature ornate four-poster beds, decadent jewel-toned fabrics, and glass bowls overflowing with ripe fruits that could be straight out of a Renaissance painting.

There’s an exquisite private beach just a short bike or golf cart ride away, and a restaurant offering a sophisticated cuisine, in contrast to the earthier fare on offer in the neighboring towns. The environs are fanciful yet calm — the latter likely due in no small part to the fact that children under the age of twelve aren’t welcome at the resort. The atmosphere may be a bit staid, but it’s perfect for childless travelers looking for a bit of peace — if it’s the stereotypically garrulous, bustling Italy you’re after, just ask for directions to Napoli.