The area around Lake Bafa is popular on account of its ruins and unusual hiking trails. Be sure to include in your itinerary this little guesthouse, somewhat tucked away in the greenery (just be warned that the paths that lead here can get surprisingly narrow). The splendour of the setting is complemented by the hostess in her generous culinary offerings. Vegetables from her own farm, fish from the lake, beef from neighbouring farmers: she works with top-quality produce. She serves down-to-earth dishes such as barbecued sea bass with onion, tomato, pepper and wintercress. Fried aubergine really comes into its own in a yoghurt salad with a fiery chilli dressing. At Agora Panisyon, the heartwarming fare lets the ingredients speak for themselves.