This exceptional restaurant has left nothing to chance: ceramics designed by a Japanese artist, rosewood chopsticks set out on a small cedar tray, maple wood panelling and soft lighting. Sushi master Tomoyuki Yoshinaga crafts a feast of outstanding fish, including different varieties of fatty tuna, which he surgically prepares and seasons – all for the benefit of no more than 10 diners at a time. This culinary performance of high-flying precision covers textures, maturations, serving temperatures and a vast array of flavours depending on the omakase menu. We also noticed and applauded more personal recipes and techniques, particularly the house marinades and soy sauces and the subtle selection of warm dishes served at the start of the meal. The final cherry on the cake is the tandem formed by the chef and his maitre d’ which is so seamless and smooth as to be almost invisible, if it weren’t for the duo’s manifest complicity and shared sense of humour.