Some establishments have chosen to shy away from media hype and les Cèdres is in that category. Betwixt Romans and Tain-l’Hermitage in Drôme, venture over the threshold of this restaurant, shaded by cedars and devoted to nature, and sample the work of the Bertrand brothers: Jacques in the kitchen and Jean-Paul in the dining room. Since 1988, they have lavished time, humility and talent on developing their enterprise. As Gallic as Gauloises and Jacques Tati, the menu focuses on flavour rather than fancy technique. The authentic warm welcome adds the final flourish to this hospitable establishment.