As a young man, Mitsutaka Kawano was a hurdler. Sushi preparation is much like hurdling, he says, as in both cases you try to deliver the best performance in the shortest possible time. Nigiri, a product of countless hours of forming practice, are relatively small, formed from relatively warm vinegared rice of just the right saltiness. The chef’s pet saying is that each day a sushi chef must improve his technique from the day before. In his quest for excellence, Mitsutaka Kawano will never stop hurdling.