For those who’ve been following chef/owner Chad Colby in East Larchmont Village, the revamp of this Italian looker will not feel so unfamiliar. The space remains a hive of activity, boasting all the coolness of an underground speakeasy, now fitted with comfy, backlit booths lining the room. A hand-cranked rotisserie grill is the centerpiece of this handsome kitchen, which turns out hearty pastas and big proteins. Focaccia with whipped ricotta and hazelnut pesto is a must, while a broccoli chicory Caesar scratches any itch for greenery. Pasta stuffed with rabbit is a signature, but don’t sleep on the veggies like the potato tart served with whole garlic cloves or the fire-roasted sweet potato. Freshly churned ice cream is the ultimate finale.