Royal Riviera

For decades, the French Riviera was unchallenged as the center of all that was glamorous on the Mediterranean, from the Roaring Twenties through the Swinging Sixties—but at some point, the gilt-edged opulence and wedding-cake splendor started looking dated, and the beautiful people moved on.

Now the Riviera is back, and though the exact reason for its resurgence is a bit obscure—could be the new wave of hip hotel design, or a certain English budget airline—the simple fact of it is undeniable. One by one, the old guard has been forced to modernize, or get out of the way, and the Hotel Royal Riviera is an inspiring example of the former, having been expertly renovated at the hand of the famed hotel consultant Grace Leo.

The result is that this once-grand Belle Époque beauty is grand again, but in a style fitting the times, all clean lines and open spaces, muted colors and rich earth-toned leather furnishings, except in the new Orangerie addition—this building, amid the hotel’s Renaissance gardens, features bedrooms in lavender or pale orange (trust us, it works) and blonde wood. There’s an ancient Hellenic theme to the place now as well, with the occasional fresco or column integrated into the design—perhaps a sly nod to the Greek islands whose clientele the Côte d’Azur is tempting back to France.

The private beach is regularly restocked with shipments of sand, and the restaurant, while still in search of the elusive Michelin star, is fine enough—though many guests will prefer to take meals on one of the many outdoor terraces, to soak in the Riviera sun and Mediterranean breeze. It’s a stellar revision of an old classic; not a trace of fading glory or tattered edges, while at the same time not trying too desperately hard to be hip.

How to get there: Hotel Royal Riviera is a 25-minute drive from Nice-Côte d'Azur Airport.