Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa

Just 18 miles from the clamorous, chaotic seaport of Naples, and just a ferry ride from Capri, is the alarmingly beautiful island of Ischia — perhaps the perfect reminder of what has drawn tourists to this part of the world since time immemorial. How do you improve on Italy’s renowned landscapes and hospitality traditions? You concentrate them via island living. Given the readily available volcanic soil and geothermic treatments here, a wellness retreat like Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa should satisfy even the most frazzled of travelers.

The hotel is centered around a converted sixteenth-century watchtower, crenellations and all, on the island's northwestern coast, the perfect vantage point from which to survey the splendid calm of San Montano Bay and the Tyrrhenian Sea beyond. The more authentic (and, shall we say, cozy) rooms are located within the old watchtower — more spacious living arrangements can be had in the outlying buildings. In either case, you’ll be doing plenty of roaming within the picturesque parkland within which Mezzatorre situates its facilities, a rambling, gazebo-dotted expanse of Mediterranean macchia and pine groves that nearly justifies the stay by itself.

Most rooms (and all suites) have a terrace or balcony, and all have windows with stunning sea views — and if the view isn't doing it for you, then this may not be the place for you. We wouldn’t blame anyone for splurging on the upper-tier rooms, if only for their hot tubs, although canopy beds, Italian furnishings, and tilework make most any room a fine one.

Giuseppe D’Abundo oversees the kitchen, taking full advantage of Neapolitan cuisine’s variety of cultural influences. Chandelier skews high-concept, while Sciuè Sciuè embraces a more casual, conversational side, though both benefit enormously from a candlelit terrace with live music. Should you opt for a mainland excursion, the spa and wellness center constitute an ideal counterpoint to the notorious traffic and crowds in Naples. Four pools, but who’s counting?

Please note: Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa is open seasonally from April through October.

How to get there: Ischia is a 45-minute ferry ride from Naples. Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa offers shuttle service from the ferry at the cost of 25 euros each way.