Auberge du Jeu de Paume

Even in the rarefied world of France’s grand country estates, the Domaine de Chantilly, home to the 92-room Auberge du Jeu de Paume, occupies a special position. Put it this way: there are parts of Versailles that took their inspiration from this place. Just twenty-five miles from Paris, it’s an aristocratic fantasy come to life, where all the furniture seems to have a “Louis” in its name, the art collection wouldn’t be complete without its Raphaels, and the perfectly manicured grounds seem to go on forever. And as though to underscore the point that you’re essentially entering a fairy tale, you arrive via a country road that twists through the forest, the hotel’s immaculate façade revealed as you pass under the massive stone arches at the entrance. Needless to say there’s an impeccably polite doorman in a finely tailored suit waiting to see you inside.

The rooms span from opulent to fit-for-a-king — no coincidence given the estate’s history of hosting royals, kings included. Materials, in every case, are as rich as they come: Italian marble in the bathrooms, fine toile de Jouy fabrics, antique hardwood furniture upholstered in velvet. For those of us more used to seeing French countryside décor in pastiche rather than the real thing, it’s something of a revelation. The patterns are every bit as flowery, the chandeliers just as ornate, but treated properly, these classic set pieces feel perfectly at home, no stuffier than the country air just outside.

Activities skew toward the aristocratic. There’s riding, polo and racing at the 160-acre horse stables and racecourse. In June the course hosts the prestigious Prix de Diane, particularly strong evidence that aristocratic leisure is alive and well. The museum, virtually unaltered since it opened in 1898, houses one of the finest collections of paintings in France. There are rounds of golf to play and nature-walks to take, occasional concerts to attend and, perhaps best of all, meals to linger over in the restaurant. Fortunately, finishing an epic, hours-long meal is about as hard as life gets here — until it’s time to break the spell and leave, a challenge indeed once you’ve gotten used to living like a royal.


How to get there:
Auberge du Jeu de Paume is located 52 minutes away from Paris.

Booking Details: Auberge du Jeu de Paume requires additional information from guests to ensure the best stay possible. As such, reservations can only be confirmed through our customer service team. Contact us for assistance. Rates begin at 428 EUR per night.