The delicious cooking at this humble osteria has been drawing crowds for more than two decades—and in a city that rolls out the red carpet for the hottest new thing, that’s no small feat. This simple, authentic charmer is the real deal, right down to the red scarf-bedecked chef in the kitchen as well as those regulars sipping and supping on Italian wines and fresh pasta in the dining room.

Though the service brigade leans old school, their generous spirit defies the gruff stereotype. Menu favorites include expertly grilled calamari, linguini with sea urchin and a perfectly authentic tiramisu for dessert. On your way out, be sure to pop into the café next door for a jar or two of Chef Gino Angelini’s sauce and bring the goodness home.