Umā stands on a quiet side street near the bustling Porte de Namur. Its white-washed brick outer facade and modern artwork inside are both inviting and attractive. Admire Aurélie Kluyskens at work in the open-plan kitchen, rustling up her own spin on Nikkei cuisine, which she rolls out in a spot-on blend of gutsy Japanese and powerful Peruvian flavours. She adds her signature with subtle spicy notes, imparting a spicy/sweet edge to scallops, courtesy of an espuma of smoked pork. Both the varied à la carte menu and the enticing set menu provide an insight into Ms Kluyskens’ distinctive culinary flair and talent.