You will be conquered by Le Vieux Château and its drop-dead surroundings before you have even taken a seat. Once over the moat bridge and past the huge oak door, it is impossible not to fall in love with the interior which intelligently and tastefully marries authentic period details such as timber ceilings with a light, contemporary vibe, while the glazed extension commands unfettered views over the garden and countryside. Once you are comfortably seated, you can bask in the slick service and infinite creativity of chef Tanguy De Turck. The chef refuses to limit himself to a single style. The meal may kick off with generous street food, before moving onto a ceviche or a bao of seabream, or a textbook-perfect pheasant on the bone. The vegetarian menu unveils the chef’s passion for veg as he rolls out a head-spinning array of techniques to transcribe his ideas into dishes, resulting in delicate, insightful and fascinating creations. Examples include breaded turbot cooked on a plancha, flanked by a tempura of mussels and a mussel sauce oozing in character, with a nori and oyster leaf mayonnaise which further enhances the dish’s briny dimension. Throughout the meal, you are invited to select bread from an amazing bread trolley (don’t miss the focaccia!). The score of this precise, generous and unorthodox chef is exalted by the intuitive wine pairing tips of the daring sommelier.