This old stone farmstead smothered in Virginia creeper and set in wooded grounds is home to the new headquarters of Emmanuel Kouri, previously encountered at Les Climats (Paris). Mindful of the provenance of his produce (line-caught fish, organic market gardeners, local dairy produce), he conjures up seafood dishes, like little tunny in kari-gosse, marinated cucumber and iced coriander soup or ikejime pollock, violin courgette in basil and a pistachio and lime sabayon. To be enjoyed on the shaded terrace in fine weather.