Louis Linster is adding a new chapter to this family saga of excellence, which started with his mum, Léa. The first woman to win the Bocuse d’Or award, she built up a distinguished reputation over the years and her son is confirming that elegance and delicacy are part and parcel of the Linster family’s DNA. Louis has seamlessly updated the house signature, courtesy of pared-back recipes that seek above all to get back to basics and to showcase the main ingredient. For example, he may add earthy mushrooms, a miso-flavoured mushroom sauce and a beurre noisette to enhance poached loin of brill. His knack with sauces is second to none, as is his flair for presentation and plating. This quintessentially sleek, classy restaurant is adorned with modern art and boasts a fantastic terrace overlooking the countryside. Léa can be proud of her son.