In the heart of historic Lille, Gérald Guille plies his trade in an attractive long narrow dining room with an open kitchen. "Pure" materials (earthenware, concrete, wood, leather) create a focused, tranquil atmosphere, mirroring the style of the chef, who delivers, in his own words, "creative, uninhibited food" that is rich in personality and flavour. He slaloms between invention and classicism over the course of subtly balanced tasting menus: trout, beetroot, bloody orange and sage; scallops, leeks, mimolette and limequat; fingered citron, honey and saffron…