This stylish restaurant in downtown Oakville could get by on looks alone with its sliding patio doors, wrap-around terrace, and an interior that is at once cool and casual. But for Chef Rafael Covarrubias, he’s got a lot more in mind. The menu reads familiar – beef tartare, oysters, fish – but what emerges from the kitchen are beautiful, soigné works that are refined, original, and substantial. Potato foam, brown butter, and roe are clever pairings with Hokkaido scallop. Pasta is a highlight, like corn agnolotti with Manchego, but so too is the short rib. And for dessert, cheesecake is surprisingly light and savory thanks to strawberries and a nutty almond cookie. To see this kitchen at its most ambitious, guests can book a tasting menu in advance.