Saint Julivert Fisherie

This long-time neighborhood favorite comes courtesy of Chefs Alex Raij and Eder Montero, who also run next-door La Vara. The narrow space does not at all match the kitchen’s outsized talents and imaginative plates, which put seafood front and center. Consider starting with spiced Puerto Rican hushpuppies or shiso steak tartare tacos before diving into the likes of seared scallop tostadas with black garlic and olive agrodolce or mussel toast with fermented cucumber and dill. It’s seafood again come entrees: go for the cod pot pie that’s wrapped in a flaky, golden crust, or the jerked hamachi collar, which is brilliantly grilled and charred. A generous selection of regional wines highlights small producers to match the cooking.