Just south of the Mercado de La Merced, this tiny little nook of a restaurant is a surprise in every way. With just a handful of tables and no menu in sight, the tasting pulls inspiration from Oaxaca’s Mixteca region. The young chef Toño García cooks with the maturity of someone much older, as he brings refined flair to indigenous preparations. His colorful, accomplished dishes wouldn’t be out of place in far ritzier settings, starting with the avocado croquette crowned with nopales. Mole amarillo with fish rolled in hoja santa as well as a vibrant beet salad pull flavors from Mexico and beyond. The signature dish is surely the taco, made with three colors of corn and paired with tender tongue, roasted pineapple and pickled red onions.