In the beating heart of Chinatown on Doyers Street, Chef Anni Shi’s little wine bar is a gift to the city. Rare wines are everywhere. They line the edges of the room, and they fill countless boxes stacked to the ceiling. People are everywhere, too, sitting elbow to elbow and even spilling out onto tables in the alley. This talented team doesn’t waste a single square inch of space – and that includes the kitchen, which turns out smart, thoughtful modern Chinese dishes. Chilled celtuce with shallots and red wine vinegar is an essential starter. Other hits include fried whiting with seaweed, scallops with lily buds and ginger, and hand-rolled noodles with braised lamb.