In this old building done out in a contemporary decor on the banks of the River Saône, Matthieu Girardon serves up his personal, uninhibited and technically accomplished take on modern cuisine. His jus and sauces elevate many of the dishes, including a pearlescent Arctic char with a fumet emulsion and a beurre blanc with fish roe. The seasons and market availability dictate the contents of his blind tasting menu, which can be adjusted to suit your budget and appetite. Wine pairings – Burgundy takes pride of place, of course – come from the restaurant's exemplary cellar.