Torre de Palma Wine Hotel

Torre de Palma Wine Hotel, located in a hilltop village in Portugal’s upper Alentejo, was built atop the remains of a villa that dates back to 1338. The whitewashed manor was originally the home of a wealthy family, and despite the interventions of a modern architect, who not only refurbished the existing structures but installed some new ones as well, the place still exudes a certain air of old-world refinement and leisure.

What would you do to pass the time as a 14-century aristocrat living in the Portuguese countryside? You’d drink wine and ride horses — and those are still two of the primary activities here. Torre de Palma is a modern hotel, of course, with a hands-on approach to such classic pastimes, with wine tastings and classes amid the barrels, and a stable where children can take riding lessons or help with grooming and feeding. There are indoor and outdoor swimming pools, too, plus a spa, a library, a restaurant, a bar; all around the hotel are rolling vineyards ideal for a late afternoon stroll.

Plenty to keep you properly entertained, in other words, but you’d be forgiven for whiling away the morning in one of the hotel’s eighteen guest rooms and suites. Some are designed with the cheery blue and white color palette of traditional Portuguese tile, others are stark white with gilded details, or painted in dark, moody hues and lit by opulent chandeliers. The styles vary, but they’re all spacious and old-fashioned, especially those located in the estate’s original house, with thick walls, shuttered windows, and beamed wooden ceilings. All are outfitted with romantic antique furniture, and elegant seating areas; bathrooms have underfloor heating and products by the Portuguese brand Castelbel.

The restaurant, Palma, is the perfect candlelit venue to sample updated takes on traditional Alentejo cuisine. This is an off-the-beaten-path part of Portugal, and staying at Torre de Palma — an old place that feels new again, a place where the wine always flows freely — is a quick way to feel at home in the region.