The veteran owner-chef has devoted his life to tonkatsu pork cutlets. As he fries pork loin and fillet, he concentrates on the changing colour of the coatings and the hiss of oil in the copper pot. Cabbage is chopped by hand as the pork sizzles. Deft, precise movements calculated with the final result in mind reassure guests. Craftsmanship learned the old-fashioned way, through patient repetition of the master’s lessons, reflects a stance of uncompromising commitment.