Brij Rama Palace Varanasi

Varanasi isn’t just another holiday destination. This city, on the banks of the Ganges in Uttar Pradesh, is a pilgrimage site, one of the spiritual centers of India, and is worthy of a certain amount of reverence, even from secular travelers. To that end, Varanasi’s most extraordinary hotel makes a few demands on its guests: there’s no alcohol served here, and all meals are strictly vegetarian. Deal-breakers for some, perhaps, but an experience like the one you’ll have at Brij Rama Palace is worth a bit of sacrifice.

You’ll arrive by boat via the Ganges, rather than attempt to wrestle with Varanasi’s snarled roads, and you’ll find yourself in an eclectic environment — the building was first a fort, then an aristocratic residence, and now, as a luxury hotel, its interiors span any number of eras and styles. The elevator is a replacement for what is alleged to have been the first one installed in South Asia, and the furnishings and décor lavishly recall the past — though there’s nothing faded about Brij Rama. With a mere 32 rooms, it’s rather more intimate than you might expect, a welcome contrast with the often overwhelming scenes you’ll see on your hotel-sponsored outings along the river.