David and Olivia embark you on an Ardennes adventure that is both familiar and polished in their welcoming house appointed in a modern vein. The chef’s deft, modern score is an ode to first-class ingredients which are allowed to shout their name. He may underscore scallops marinated in sake with a mirin dressing and textures of yellow beetroot, while Anjou pigeon acquires a worldly dimension in two dishes flanked by autumn veggies, fried panisse (chickpeas) and a knockout port wine sauce. Recognisable, contemporary fare with a respectful light touch that takes regional cuisine to new heights.