UMI Hotel

For quite a long time Iceland’s spectacular beauty was rather let down by its relatively ordinary hotels. Lately, however, a new movement is afoot, complementing this island nation’s sublime, unearthly landscapes with some equally inspiring modern architecture and design. And it doesn’t take much more than a glance at Umi Hotel to identify it as an example of exactly what we’re talking about.

Here, less than a hundred miles from Reykjavík, you’re deep in Iceland’s natural wonder, with views of the rugged southern coastline as well as Eyjafjallajökull, the famously inconvenient volcano. And despite what its low-slung modernist architecture might lead you to believe, this is a family-owned operation, an abandoned farm painstakingly transformed by Siggi and Frida (and their daughter Sandra, an interior designer) into the stylish hotel you see today.

Though it offers a cozy reprieve from the often unforgiving elements outside, Umi stops short of extravagant luxury — there’s a utilitarian practicality to Icelandic design that’s very much in evidence here. The 28 rooms are, however, much more than comfortable enough, and some of the views are simply extraordinary. A stylish restaurant and bar complete the package, serving locally sourced fare — expect plenty of seafood. And no visit is complete without getting to know Breki, the family dog, who’s always on duty, and is a natural in the role of hotel host.