Memmo Baleeira
You’ll be glad they did. While it’s no undiscovered paradise, the undulating swaths of manicured lawn and a handful of well-kept beaches within walking distance make for a pleasant escape. The indoor element presents a clean-lined, minimalist counterpoint, respectably wood-forward and absolutely flooded with natural light — and for all its modern minimalism, it’s surprisingly family-friendly (and thus perhaps not ideal for silence-seekers or solitude fanatics). 144 rooms and suites spread out over a series of long, low-slung wings in chic, beachy white with dark earth tones for balance. Thick-pile carpets and plush seating ensure comfort for weary explorers, and LCD flatscreens give you something to do once you put your legs up. Spring for the ocean and harbor views for the full experience, including a knockout sunrise.
Fornaria, the restaurant, hits all the right notes — wood oven, unbelievably fresh seafood — and pairs them with a deep, country-spanning wine list; there’s also a lounge for small plates and the requisite caipirinha, though both enjoy that same engrossing view. An equally large menu of activities awaits the active: a fully equipped spa and fitness center, bike rentals, shipwreck diving (indeed), and an on-site surf center, for starters. Or do as the local fishermen do and range the coastal trails.
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