Everyone at this inviting space is warmly professional, including the eager and well-paced staff. Add in the mature, stylish crowd and architecturally detailed dining room (a hybrid between your grandmother’s home and an art gallery with its black-and-cream palette, leather seating and vintage chandeliers) and you’ll be counting down the days until your next visit.
Small but mighty, this kitchen under the guidance of Chef Teague Moriarty turns out a seasonal, ingredient-focused menu that consistently pleases with stark, stylized dishes and a sense of minimalism inspired from new Nordic and Japanese cooking. Vegetables are given their proper due, as in a grilled and dried beet full of earthy sweetness bolstered by fermented huckleberry and whipped bone marrow. This team shows its strongest suit in dishes of bold simplicity, where a grill-kissed Maine scallop is brushed with pine syrup and sauced with brown butter and green farro miso. Then lamb saddle and sweetbread is accompanied by a jus lifted with summer flavors.
Desserts follow the thread of focused seasonality, as in a silken ice cream spun from jasmine rice koji matched with tiny, intense strawberries and poached rhubarb.